Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Bahir Dar

After Lalibela we went to Bahir Dar by Lake Tana. To be honest I had never heard of Bahir Dar until my friend recommended it and I didn't know about Lake Tana before I saw the movie Teza a while ago. However, Bahir Dar is regarded as the "Riviera of Ethiopa" and hence a rather popular tourist destination. Therefore the atmosphere is very different, almost mondane.



Ok, I have never been to the riviera and don't really think it is very similar, but there is a board walk along the lakeside and there are cafés and bars along the waterfront and jettys where boats leave for tours on the lake.



Of course the climate is very differnt too, much more humid and for the first time in Ethiopia we were under 2000 meters above sea level. Unfortunately some of the back side of tourism are also there, for examlpe more people wanting to make money on tourists.

Bahir Dar is also the starting point for the Blue Nile. We went for a tour to see the Nile Falls about one hour outside Bahir Dar. It was a nice trip for getting to see some more of a different countryside and some nice nature and beautiful birds, but I must say the falls were a bit of a disappointment.



There is a hydro electric power plant just up-streams of the falls, diverting a lot of the water and as it was low-water levels as we were there, there was hardly any water in the falls at all. Not very impressing compared to the Victoria Falls.

Lake Tana and Bahir Dar are also known for the monastries along the shore and on islands on the lake. We went on a boatride to visit a couple of the monastries.



The boat trip on the lake was very nice, but the monastries were a little of a disappointment. Or maybe it is just me who don't know how to appreciate them... But after a while it got very annoying to constantly be expected to pay money for eveything and you might get fed up of seeing one more ancient goatskin bible and a proccessional cross.



I liked the colourful paintings though. Especially the crash-diving angels..

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Ethiopia: Lalibela

After a couple of days we took a flight to Lalibela, UNESCO World heritage site, known for its eleven rock hewn churches.

Although it is only about an hour's flight from Addis it was easy to tell the difference from Addis already on arrival. Of course it is much smaller and hence quiter and the air is cleaner, but it is also much more arid. It was also much less developed and much poorer than I expected as Lalibela is one of the most well known tourist sites and reasons tourists come to Ethiopia. The area and organisation around the churches is fairly well developed but the infrastructure of the town is practically non-existant.




The hotel where we stayed was however very new, modern and nice. The most striking thing was of course the view. Absolutely fantastic!!














The curches was of course very interesting and unique. Even if I am not at all religious I can imagine and appreciate the spirituality of the place. At least I might have if it wasn't because my friend had explained to us how all the carpets on the floors of the churces were full of fleas; and hadn't it been for all the big groups of Israeli, French and American tourists; and if the priests hadn't looked so bored.... But ignoring these facts and focusing on the believers coming to pray or just to sit in the shadow and read you could sense the spirituality.

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Ethiopia: Addis Ababa

When I first planned this trip I had an ambition to write some posts during the trip. I expected the trip to be interesting and exciting and worth writing about, and as I planned to travel alone I thought I would have plenty of time to make reflections and to write. But then my mother decided to join. Hence, no time to write. So I did not even bother to bring my laptop nor go to internet-cafés. Nevertheless the trip was intresting and we saw a lot of things worth writing about, but since I came home I haven't really had the time to write and as my computer is about to break down downloading pictures haven't been the smoothest operation. Anyway; I will now try to give a short summary of the trip.

First we started out in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.

My first impression was that it all seemes surprisingly modern, well-working and efficient and hence, sorry to say so, rather un-African. Not that I have huge personal experience of Africa, but I have seen for African countries and I do have some professional experience of other African countries too. This first impression somehow lasted altrough the week that I stayed in Ethiopia. Things worked very well. Of course my friend complained about a lot of things that will probably annoy you when you live there for a longer time, but during the week we were there she only had two shorter power black outs, which I feel is not so bad compared to what we had in Harare (and later on Zanzibar). Ok, streets and roads are bad and traffic is chaotic, but so it is in many other countries too. I guess corruption is endemic, but still thins seem to work and people seemed to have respect for police and authorities, although that might not be a all-good sign... Even if you had to pay for a lot of strange things all the time and often had the feeling they just came up with different kind of fees for just about anything, you always got a receipt for the fees you paid. I even managed to get a recepit from a priest in a monastary , after some discussion...

Food was good where ever we ate, not least because we had good "local" guides of course. I just love the Ethiopian injira and "western" food was also good. One thing that I just loved were the fresh fruit juices. In many cafés they had just fabulouls juices, strawberry, mango, pineapple, guava, avocado and the best; mixes of them all.


The favourite was the "El Bingo" in la Parisienne.

With the help of my friends we were efficiently introduced to the shopping life of Addis. I bought a lot of textiles and crafts and some clothes too.




We were also provided with a driver and guide taking us around to the National and Ethnografic museeums, where we among other things saw "Lucy".



Toghether with my friends we had decided to flee Addis on the day of Timkat as my friends had the day off and we asumed the city would be completly crowded. Still we managed to get a glimpse of the Timkat celebrations in Addis the day before, which was nice.



Outside the Trinity Church we saw people starting gathering and I asked what was going on and learned that the Tabots were just about to be taken out and the processions to start so we stayed around for a while and got a good view. Interesting! At first I was a bit worried that people would mind us tourist hanging around in an very important religious ceremony, but on the contrary! Everyone was very friendly, helpful and positive. They made sure we had good places where we had a good view and even helped me to get further to make pictures and they were very willing to explain what was going on and answer questions. Nice!

The day of Timkat we left Addis early in the morning to awoid traffic and drive to Ankober. The road was very much worse than we expected so the trip took much longer. Most of the way there were road-works and parts of the way we were driving on the side of the road. Interesting! I think at times we all wondered if it was all worth it, but as we came closer to Ankober and higher up in the mountains the views were absolutely breathtaking.



The air was so clean and it was silent in a way you rarely experience. Beautiful!

One thing that also strikes you in Ethiopia is the good coffee. No wonder maybe in the home of the coffe bean, and the coffe ceremony where beans are roasted, grounded and brewed in front of you, served with popcorn and together with the smell of frankinscence is a national pride. But the Italian influence have also hade some positive effect on the matter. In every café, even in the smallest café in the shittiest village you can find a proper coffee machine and it is well looked after and working. This make it possible to always get a nice espresso, macchiato or cappucino.





My absolute favourite was the Tomoca in Addis. You could smell the freshly roasted coffee from afar and once you entered it was like a thick fog of coffee-smoke but the athmosphere was just fantastic as well as the coffee.